Iris ensata "Pink Dimity"

Early / Mid Season Japanese Iris.

Iris ensata " Pink Dimity"

This is a stunning Japanese iris that flowers in my garden. It is another spectacular 6 petal form of
Iris ensata " Pink Dimity".

The colour is stunning. A beautiful lightly ruffled rich vibrant pink. (RHS 55D) ground, veined light maroon (74B), mauve (74C), halo around gold signal, mauve (74C) stylearms. The plant grows really well for me with lots of beautiful clean foliage and tall ram rod stems held proudly above the upright arching foliage. It produces an abundance of flowering stems on a well formed stunning clump in late November / early December.

This was created and selected by Lorena Reid and registered by her in 1987 from her seedling D658-7. Cross with Valiant Prince X Marx MX 4, introduced by Laurie's Garden 1987.

"Pink Dimity" was awarded an Honorable Mention (HM) for its plant growth habit and flowering in 1989 and a Award of Merit (AM) in 1994 after its introduction.

It grows to height of 91 cms (36 ins) and flowers early to mid season in New Zealand while flowering in the mid season else where in the world.

This beautiful variety looks magic planted up in drifts of 10 to 15 or more plants to be enjoyed in the garden near your pond or any rich moist soil. Makes a stunning display when in full flower. Just unreal in it's colours giving an amazing effect.

Remember to give it at least 6 hours of sun light if you can. Japanese irises are gross feeders so a good balance fertilizer in the early spring and again after flowering around the drip line of foliage will do them proud. Little and often is a good rule of thumb for fertilizers.

Water in where possible to help the plant take up the benefits. Mulch around the plants with barely straw, pine needles or pea straw to retain moisture in soil and prevent weed growth.

Remember that Japanese Irises "Love wet toes and dry ankles" so when you are planting these take this into consideration please.

Available in New Zealand and around the world.

* Acknowledgement: - 2003 Cumulative Check list of the Japanese Irises complied for The Society of Japanese Irises.

Iris ensata " Lavender Sashay"

Early / Mid Season Japanese Iris.

Iris ensata
" Lavender Sashay"

Another of my early Japanese iris flowers to appear in my garden is another spectacular 6 petal form of Iris ensata " "Lavender Sashay".


The colour is soft lavender pink with prominent blue halo around a yellow signal, White styles edged with lavender fringe. Flowering in mid to late season in the USA. The plant grows well for me with lots of beautiful clean foliage and tall ram rod stems held proudly above the upright arching foliage. It produces an abundance of flowering stems on a well formed clump in New Zealand in late November / early December.

This was created by Walter Marx and selected by A. Rogers and registered from the seedling WM M07.

"Lavender Sashay" was awarded an Honorable Mention (HM) for its plant growth habit and flowering in 1986 after its introduction in 1983. It grows to height of 122 cm ( 48 ins) and flowers early to mid season in New Zealand while flowering in the mid to late season else where in the world.

This beautiful variety looks magic planted up to be enjoyed in the garden near your pond or any rich moist soil.

Remember to give it at least 6 hours of sun light if you can.

Japanese irises are gross feeders so a good balance fertilizer in the early spring and again after flowering around the drip line of foliage will do them proud. Little and often is a good rule of thumb for fertilizers.


Water in where possible to help the plant take up the benefits. Mulch around the plants with barely straw, pine needles or pea straw to retain moisture in soil and prevent weed growth.

Remember that Japanese Irises "Love wet toes and dry ankles" so when you are planting these take this into consideration please.

Available in New Zealand and around the world.




* Acknowledgement - 2003 Cumulative Check list of the Japanese Irises complied for The Society of Japanese Irises.

Iris ensata "McKenzie Sunset"

Early / Mid Season Japanese Iris.

Iris ensata
" McKenzie Sunset"

From my early Japanese iris flowers to appear in my garden is another spectacular 6 petal form of Iris ensata " McKenzie Sunset".

The colour is soft and in the garden with fluted and ruffled violet, white area around greenish gold signals with white rays extended outward, white style arms tipped violet. The plant grows well for me with lots of beautiful clean foliage and tall ram rod stems held proudly above the upright arching foliage. It produces an abundance of flowering stems on a well formed clump in late November / early December.

This was created and selected by Lorena Reid and registered by her in 1988 from her seedling D552-5. A116-5: (maroon seedling x white seedling) X Mystic Buddha , introduced by Laurie's Garden 1989.

Judging of Japanese irises is done by garden judging and evaluation of seedlings on the show bench or growing in gardens around the United States and in other countries around the world. The judging is governed by rules and standards of the American Iris Society and The Society for Japanese Irises. Other countries have adopted these rules and standards in their Iris Societies and where needed have made slight changes to allow for the conditions in each country while still applying a very high standards for awards given to Irises. In giving awards to hybridizers a seedling becomes eligible for it first award as a seedling before it is introduced to the commercial sector of the garden industry. This award is called a High Commendation (HC).

Once a seedling is introduced it then become eligible on its second year after its introduction to the commercial garden industry for a Honorable Mention (HM). For year 2 to year 4 it is eligible for the Payne Award (Awarded in the USA). While in other countries around the world, the irises that is introduced in that country is placed in a series of test gardens for evaluation and is eligible for a Dykes Medal if the irises meets outstanding standards set for this award.

McKenzie Sunset was awarded an Honorable Mention (HM) for its plant growth habit and flowering in 1991 after its introduction. It grows to height of 85 to 105 cms (34 to 42 ins) and flowers early to mid season in New Zealand while flowering in the mid season else where in the world.

This beautiful variety looks magic planted up to be enjoyed in the garden near your pond or any rich moist soil.

Remember to give it at least 6 hours of sun light if you can.

Japanese irises are gross feeders so a good balance fertilizer in the early spring and again after flowering around the drip line of foliage will do them proud. Little and often is a good rule of thumb for fertilizers.

Water in where possible to help the plant take up the benefits. Mulch around the plants with barely straw, pine needles or pea straw to retain moisture in soil and prevent weed growth.

Remember that Japanese Irises "Love wet toes and dry ankles" so when you are planting these take this into consideration please.

Available in New Zealand and around the world.

* Acknowledgement: - 2003 Cumulative Check list of the Japanese Irises complied for The Society of Japanese Irises.

Iris ensata " Good Omen"

Early / Mid Season Japanese Iris.

Iris ensata " Good Omen"

The first Japanese iris flower to appear in my garden is a spectacular 6 petal form of Iris ensata " Good Omen".

The colour stands out in a garden with a deep rich wine self, dark halo, long bright yellow signal spears which radiates from the centre of the flower.


The plant grows well for me with lots of beautiful clean foliage and tall ram rod stems held proudly above the upright arching foliage. It produces an abundance of flowering stems on a well formed clump in late November / early December.

This was selected from the Carmen series by Walter Marx and registered by him in 1956 from his seedling 56-151. It grows to height of 91 cms (36 ins) and flowers early to mid season in New Zealand while flowering in the mid season else where in the world.





An outstanding variety to grow and looks magic planted up in a group planting of 10 or more plants in a drift to be enjoyed in the garden near your pond or any rich moist soil.


Remember to give it at least 6 hours of sun light if you can. Japanese irises are gross feeders so a good balance fertilizer in the early spring and again after flowering around the drip line of foliage will do them proud. Little and often is a good rule of thumb for fertilizers.




Water in where possible to help the plant take up the benefits. Mulch around the plants with barely straw, pine needles or pea straw to retain moisture in soil and prevent weed growth.



Remember that Japanese Irises "Love wet toes and dry ankles" so when you are planting these take this into consideration please.






Available in New Zealand and around the world.

* Acknowledgement: - 2003 Cumulative Check list of the Japanese Irises complied for The Society of Japanese Irises.

Great Japanese Iris hybridizers of the Past..

Walter Marx.

A tribute to one of the worlds most outstanding hybridizers noted for his dedicated work towards the advancement of Peonies and Japanese Iris (Iris ensata). This nurseryman was a leader of his time setting a bench standard and inspiration to hybridizers' young and old a like of which many of his wonderful varieties of Japanese irises are in all corners of the globe and still widely propagated in nurseries today.

Walter, along with his wife Louise Marx lived in Boring, Oregon in the United States and had one of the largest perennial nurseries in the US. He become interested in all types of Irises. Walter's interest in the Japanese iris was so strong that in 1937 he ordered a collection of Japanese irises from Japan. These beautiful flowering plants inspired him to want to begin a breeding program to create more incredible varieties. He set to the task and began to hybridize them with great success in the results of his crosses. He was convinced that the Higo strains gave the best results for his work and began in earnest with his hybridizing program in Japanese Irises using these varieties.They therefore where called the Marhigo strain.


The first of his creations where listed in his nursery catalogue in 1953. He produced over a hundred more hybrids up till the late 1960's.

Here is a beautiful picture from his Walter Marx Nursery catalogue which he produced in full colour to popularize the Japanese Iris to encourage the purchase of these new varieties which flowered so well for him and he wanted to share his work with keen gardeners and the rest of the world.

His most popular varieties produced where " Blue Lagoon", "Frilled Enchantment", " Frosted Pyramid", "Gay Gallant", "Snowy Hills", "Summer Storm", "World's Delight"', " Flashing Kio", "Good Omen", "Sorcerer's Triumph", "Peacock's Dance", "Persian Rug", "Reign of Glory", and "Rose Prelude".

There are many other varieties which are grown throughout the United States and across the world. His wife Louise Marx was also a keen hybridizer and some of the many varieties that where introduced bear her name as well.

Acknowledgements:

The brief history of Walter Marx has been sourced from information in the book "The Japanese Iris," by the Late Currier Mc Ewen and use to promote a better understanding of the people which made a huge contribution to the early advancement of the Japanese Iris that we know today.

Currier was also and outstanding hybridizer of his time and dedicated his life's work to the promotion of the irises. In his passion with the Iris, Currier worked with Siberian and Japanese Irises setting new paths and interesting crosses which took the world by storm and inspired the Iris world.

Japanese Iris Propagation by Plant Division.

Division of Established Clumps.

You have just received you plant order....Gosh what can I do ?....

Some nurseryman will sell you bare root divisions from open ground. Once the order arrives, open the parcel, then soak the divisions of rhizomes in water. In the water add a very weak solution of liquid fertilizer so that the roots can take this up. After a few hours of soaking (up to 4 hours is enough to rehydrate them) they are ready for you to begin your planting.

I have brought plants from nurserymen and irises growers before from around the World so many times that it is now very easy.... For me...once the clumps of rhizomes have soaked.... I put them into large pots with a good soil potting mix.... most important is the plant label, writing the name top and bottom of the label. Labels do break now and then or are push hoed off later on, so id is important for me on those newly purchased varieties. Then I place all the pots together in a wood framed area so I can look after them much easier. Watering, weeding and light liquid feeding with fertilizer is made easy. Morning sun (4 hours minimum) and afternoon shade is a great place for them to recover and grow on. I take out my dairy and make a plan of what varieties are placed where in the cold frame. Just in case little fingers remove the labels as young children always want to play and white labels do have a fascination or push labels deep down the side of the pot. Then the following spring I would plant them out in a prepared open ground area or garden. Never leave them to soak overnight and swim.

Always keep in mind the Japanese irises love wet toes and dry ankles.

One can divide your plants either in late summer after the flowering season or early spring just as the new shoots begin to emerge.

Summer division.

One can take a division from a establish plant in the garden and divide from the plant about a month after flowering and just remove a decent size piece with soil from the growing clump.Trim back your foliage to about 25 to 30 cms high (10 to 12 inches) to reduce transpiration in the leaves. Lightly trim up any damaged roots and plant into prepared ground or in a large pot with good potting mix. The divided plant must have adequate moisture to develop new white roots at the base of the rhizomes to re-establish itself. I water daily with just a sprinkle of water to keep moist for about the first 10 days then once every 4 or 5 days from them on and as your plant begins to re-grow one can ease back on the watering. There will be some died back or browning of the old foliage as new leaves begin to appear as the plant produces new roots and recovers from its trauma.

Spring division.

In my photo's I have lifted a 3 year old clump in the very early spring while the foliage has died down and the new shoots are just beginning to emerge. I trim back the spent foliage to 10 to 15 cms ( 4 to 6 inches) so I can handle the clump better.

I take this clump to a washing area I have set up for division of my plants. I use a garden hose with a reasonable pressure to wash away the soil or mud from the dormant clump of rhizomes and clean it so you can see where to make divisions best. Once you have washed about half the soil from the clump and can see clearly where the rhizomes are, you can trim the roots to about 8 to 10 cms (3 to 4 inches) long and tidy up the top dormant foliage as well. Craft scissors I fined are the best.

Once I have a semi clean clump in front of me I take the kitchen meat clever. Safer to handle when chopping the clump up.


I divide my clump in half and then each half into quarters, Each quarter has about 3 to 5 new shoots or rhizomes. If you divide smaller, the pieces will grow, but need extra care and will take forever to make a good sized plants again. Please don't be to mean when dividing.

Discard any old spent rhizomes.

The plant divisions are then ready to plant out in prepared garden soil and watered in or placed into a large pot with a good potting mix to grow on till you are ready to plant them out.



Again you could have a prepared area of straw on the ground in which you can line out your divisions.
Thus helping to reduce weed growth later on and to help also to retain moisture needed for the white root development and recovery.

Refer to early blogs on seedlings.

Manawatu Iris Show.

Regional Iris Flower Show.

~ 1st & 2nd November.~

Hosted by The Rangitikei, Wairarapa and Wellington Iris Groups

The Show is to be held at the Leisure Centre, 569 Ferguson Street, Palmerston North.

Open hours for the public are ~
1-00 pm - 4 pm Saturday.
10-00 am - 4 pm Sunday

~ ~ Admission is free. ~ ~

Sales table.

There will be excellent bargains to be had with named iris plants of all descriptions. Choice raffles and some great fertilizer deals for your plants.

Refreshments will be for sale for visitors to sit and relax over a cuppa.

Anyone is able to exhibit an iris they are growing.

Club members will be available to help anyone to stage their irises between 8 -9 am on the Saturday morning. It is a lot of fun, so please come along and give it a go.

The rules are as follows:

Venue open to stage entries 8.00am until 10.30 am Saturday 1st November.
No entry fee to exhibit.


Exhibitors do not need to be members of the Society.
All exhibits must be grown in the exhibitor’s own garden.
Exhibits must be left until the close of the show.


Those who wish to courier entries must make arrangements to have them staged and collected. No responsibility will be taken by those staging for any damage that may occur.


Queen of the show will be judged as the best iris at the show. Each section will have a Best Bloom.


Naming- All NZ bred must be registered and named and cleared by the classification steward at the show.


Entry of psuedocorous or fetodissima will not be accepted at the show.


Vases and Newspaper will be provided.

Please feel free
to come
and enjoy
beautiful Irises ...



You would be made most welcome.

The Dykes Medal is awarded to a New Zealand bred iris. This is shared with Australia and New Zealand being awarded Bi-annually to Breeders of either country.


Here is Shirley Spicer receiving her Dykes Medal for 'Salute D'Amour' from Gwen Henderson in 2005









If you would like to join a local iris group and take part in the fellowship of these groups in the following areas the contact are -

The New Zealand Iris Society,

"Alison Simpson", 'Limavady', R.D.9C, Oamaru 9491.

www.nziris.org.nz

Manawatu Rangitikei Iris Group.

"Carole Flyer," 5 Cohen Place, Palmerston North 4414.

Waiarapa Iris Group.

"Piki Carroll", Black Rock Road, R.D.6, Masterton.

Wellington Iris Group.

"Carolyn Goudswaard", 20A Epuni Street, Brooklyn, Wellington 6021.

Japanese Iris - Planting out Seedlings

I'm now ready to plant.

I load my seedling plants up on my trusty walker frame and head for the new Japanese iris planting area.

Again I use the string line to mark my complete row. I use a 6 metre length pipe marked at 40 cm (16 inches) spacing's and my string row lines are set at 1 metre (38 inch) spacing's between the rows. This it to allow for spraying or using the lawn mower between the rows of plants while they grow.

I prepare in a bucket a light solution of liquid feed using Phostrogen plant food and water mixed.




I then take the scissors and remove 1/3 of the top growth from the seedling. This is because once they are planted out they are on there own to adapt to their new environment, to produce nice white roots to begin new growth.











By reducing the top by 1/3 this helps in reducing the transpiration area which helps the plant retain its water better while recovering and putting out new roots below.














I then place the seedlings in the bucket of liquid feed solution and leave to soak for about 5 to 10 minutes.



I apply a very small handful of balanced fertilizer to where I will plant the seedling and thoroughly mix well into the soil.






I remove the plastic pot from the seedling and with the use of a long handled garden trowel I plant into the soil about a 2 to 3 cms (1 inch) below the soil line and firm the seeding in. I continue down my row. Once completed I then move the string line and begin the process again.

Use good plant labels as you go, this will identify your different hybrid crosses etc.

Write in a garden diary your plan and where each lot it planted in the row. Draw a plan . This will help you later when your memory has faded a little. Believe me it works a treat.

Then I spread straw along the rows to help with weed control.

Water in the rows if required with a garden lawn sprinkler.

Japanese Irises ~ Preparing a Site.

While your seedlings are slowing growing in the pots it is time to work out where you are going to plant them as the area you put them in will be use by these seedlings for up to two years.

Remember that Japanese irises "Need wet toes and dry ankles."

They require a good enriched heavy typed soil, slightly acid, well drained to slightly damp. Moisture is very important for good growth. A minimum of 4 hours and at least 6 hours of sunlight to induce good growth of your plants and to promote great flowering.

Once you have worked out the number of plants you have to plant you have a good idea where they will fit in your garden. Sometimes it is hard to throw the leftovers away so the idea is to set yourself a target number to be potted with a few spares in case some plants do not make the grade when you are planting them out.

Once you have selected your site there are two ways in which you can approach preparation of your planting bed.

The area selected has weeds or is part of the lawn area. So in order to plant your iris plants you must prepare the ground first.

You can do this by either -

(1) Spraying the area you are going to plant with a weed spray with chemicals like Roundup herbicide a few months before planting to wipe out your perennial weeds. Mother nature is excellent at taking good care of our adventures in the garden so she will put back what you take away. Once you have a second germination of weed seedlings use the Roundup herbicide spray again to take care of these new young weeds.


Then cover your bed with 10 cms (4 inches) of mulch such as barley straw or pea straw or one can use pine needles. It you use meadow hay you will have the problems of all the wonderful seeds in the hay put back into the area you are preparing. Not a great idea.

Or....

(2) If you are not into sprays then take a large piece of black polythene and cover the same area over the lawn or weeds about 3 months before hand. Place weights around the big area of polythene to stop the wind removing it. Leave and the weeds will die underneath this covering. Once you are near the time of ready to plant you can then remove the cover and work up your soil to a fine tilt and cover with your mulch to prevent more weeds germinating.

Once the area is covered with mulch, the weeds are far and few between and can be easy be removed by hand. Make the bed easy for access from either side so you can control what it happening. Weeding, spraying, watering and fertilizing can be made easy.

Once your seedlings are ready to plant out, a string line with a long bamboo cane or pipe can be used. The cane can be marked at 40 cm (16 inches) intervals so one can plant at each mark and slide the cane along the string line to give you the correct spacing's. Plant your plants through the straw and replace the straw around the plants. This will reduce your weed re-growth and will conserve the moisture to the growing plants during the early to late summer. When the soil becomes dry begin to water them later in the season when they require it, The mulch will help retain the moisture held in the soil for the plants to take up easier.

For me... my eyes are bigger than my mind and I like to do things on a grand scale... sometimes the hard way.


Mind you I am trying to make it easier as I get older and the new knee joints slow me down a little. I just need more oil in the titanium joints... LOL.

I have had someone cultivate the soil for me of a quarter acre lot and then prepare it to a fine tilt. Once the area in ready... It is time to begin the planting.

Japanese Iris ~ Handling Seedlings in New Zealand.

Once your seed has been sown into trays or pots, continue to water then daily to leach out a natural chemical germination inhibitor which coats the seed.

The seed will begin to germinate in one's and two's in the first stages and then all hell will break loose and the sand will begin to rise up. Not to worry as you water the sand, it will settle around the germination of seeds. If the seed becomes exposed then just add a little more sand to cover that area.

Your little rice paddy has begun.



Once the seedlings get to about 4 cm (1 1/2 in) in height, I use the pointed end of a teaspoon to carefully lift each seeding from the seed tray.

With your finger and thumb of one hand you can easily pick up the foliage of the seedling and move the seeding into individual pots.

In advance I pre-fill my pots with a moist potting mixture and using the teaspoon I make a hole in the mix to accommodate the new seedling placing the roots deep into the soil mix leaving the green foliage above. The seedlings are then watered in with the watering can. I give then a watering daily and begin a light fertilizer programme of a weak solution of Phostrogen all purpose soluble food. Use every 7 days to feed the foliage and growing roots of young seedlings.

They grow quite fast once they have germinated and if they get away on you, clip the tops of the seedlings back to about 4 cm high ( 1 1/2in), then prick them out of the tray into individual pots.

The roots may be staring to get quite long and string like so I trim these back a little too with the scissors to give the young seedling some balance with transpiration and reduce the shock of the move.


Once the plants become well rooted in the pots they are ready to line out in your open ground area to grow on. This will be early summer planting.

I place my pots on a bed of sand as the roots can then take up more moisture from the sand as required if a watering is missed that day.

Once you have pricked out the number of seedlings you need, you can then calculate the area of ground needed to plant them out in.


If you have sown a random mixture of seed then just select the biggest and the strongest of seedlings in the tray as they just keep on coming. You will need to be firm with yourself and discard the rest of the germinating seedlings once your number has been achieved.

I use the calculation of one plant per 40cm (16in) apart in a row and space my rows 60cm (24in) apart. Once you know the size of area you can begin to either cultivate the soil or spray out the marked area with roundup to kill off weed growth. When the area of weed growth has began to show signs of dying off, cover the area with a thick blanket of barley straw 12 cm to 15 cm ( 5 to 6in) or pine needles.

What you take away... mother nature wants to put back. This cover will stop more weed germination again while helping you to control future weeds.

Large areas can be cultivated ready for the planting of your seedlings once they are about 25 cm - 30 cm (10 - 12 in) high. Do not be to worried if they grow taller than this if weather does not allow you to begin planting out, you can easily cut back the tops before planting.

Additional Information.
In the book "The Japanese Iris" by the Late Currier McEwen, there is notes on handling seeds and growing of seedlings for those living in the United States where seasons of growth are quite short and prolific. He discusses the growing of seedling both outdoors and indoor under lights.

In 'The Review", a publication of The Society for Japanese Irises. The fall issue of 2001 has a great article written by John Coble, of Michigan. It is titled "How to become a Hybrider " is which John writes about how he handles his seed and soaking of seeds before chilling in the refrigerator and growing under lights also planting outside for spring germination.

Japanese Iris~ Collecting from Seed.

Collecting the ripe seed pods begins in late summer /early autumn. The pods once fertile being bee pollinated, swell and when mature they turn brown making them ready to pick. Harvesting these is best done before they burst open and spill the seeds onto the ground. You can collect the seed pods at random being bee pollinated seed pods or if you want to try to breed some new cultivars then selective hand pollination can be done earlier in the flowering season.

In named cultivars, it is recommended that you remove the seed pods before the seed falls. Once the pod ripens, the seeds spill onto the ground and fall down in amongst the lower base leaves and can germinate the following spring. This will cause your prized named variety to produce plants different from the original and your named variety will then in time be lost.

After picking the pods, I place the pods in small brown paper bags or envelopes. Bottle store paper bags are great for this. I give a quick spray inside the paper bag of fly & insect spray (a 30 day kill) to take good care of any earwigs or chewing insects that may want to chew any seeds.
The pods will then dry out. I staple closed to seal and label the bag with the details of variety or colour selected. Store in cardboard box in dry place.

3 months before wanting to sow my seed I then clean the seed from the pods and discard the spent pods. Normally done on a cold winters night while watching the TV.


The seed is then left in a tray to dry over night for big lots or smaller lots are put into envelopes and marked as to which variety was collected and a date. This is to identify your seed source of pod parent in later years should you wish to register a new exciting variety.

My simple method of ID is the year. eg: 2008 = 08 then the number given 001 or 002... etc. This info is written on a plastic label 08/001 when they are sown in trays. This number stays with the seedlings when pricked out and with the plants once planted out in your growing area.

Each lot of seed of different varieties can then be numbered and the relevant information of plant name collected from can be recorded in a seed dairy for future reference.

About 12 weeks (May) before spring ( August) I take the seed that I have cleaned and place the envelopes with any lose seed in a plastic bowl. I cover the bowl with a plastic cover as not to let any moisture or food stuffs, drip or spill into my bowl. A plastic bag can be used instead of a bowl for smaller lots of seed.




I then place the bowl in the bottom of the refrigerator or veggie compartment and leave undisturbed for 12 weeks as the seed needs stratification to germinate. The chilling period breaks down one of the germination inhibitors in the seed.

When placed at the bottom of the fridge the cool air remains in that area as the door is opened and closed with frequent daily use.



At the end of the time frame I then prepare a seed tray with seed raising mixture filling the tray to about 3/4 full and firm the seed raising mixture while leveling off the mixture to form your seed sowing area. I loosely scatter the seed across the soil mixture or place divisions in between different lots of seed to keep separate. Then gently cover the seed with washed dry river sand to a depth of 1.5 cm ( 1/2 in). This is then placed in a warm sunny area and watered in with the watering can and covered with a sheet of glass. The idea is to keep the sand moist all the time and should be watered daily or when it shows signs of drying. By keeping the water flushing through the sand this leaches out another germination inhibitor in the seed.

Germination will begin in 2 to 3 weeks from the time of sowing the seed and can continue for about 3 weeks after that. The glass sheet can then be removed once germination begins, to allow the seedings to develop and not become to drawn to light. As you water the sand it will continue to settle around the germinating seedlings as the seeds begin to germinate and will anchor the seedling into the seed raising mixture forming nice white roots.

Remember to keep the sand moist all the time.